1. Tip: In a single-breasted twobutton suit, always fasten the top button and leave the lower button undone.
Reason: In the 1900s, King Edward VII was a fairly healthy man, and was not able to button up his lower suit button due to his physique. Everyone around him did the same out of respect, as not to make him feel inferior. Since then, it remains an unsaid rule for every man sporting a two-button single-breasted suit.
2. Tip: Always unbutton your suit coat when you sit down, unless it is a double-breasted suit.
Reason: A double-breasted suit has enough buttons done up to give the coat support when you sit down. In a single-breasted coat, if you sit down without unbuttoning your coat, you run the risk of ruining its form and having it look sloppy. According to Pawan Ishwar, in the gentleman’s world, this is equivalent to dropping your jacket on the floor and stepping on it.
3. Tip: The front length of your trousers should slightly touch the top of your shoes. The back length of your trousers should reach the middle of the backside of your shoes.
Reason: A welltailored trouser should be the right length to avoid an extreme ripple in the front, as that looks untidy. Also, the length should not be too short as not to show your socks. The trick here is to have the bottom done at an angle so it has only one crease in the front. This way, your trousers will look smooth and straight in the front and will not show your socks when you walk.
4. Tip: Always choose a proper peak collar when getting a double-breasted suit.
Reason: The double-breasted suit originated from England and is until today worn by many English Royals and heads of state. The reason for this is that it gives off the appearance and impression of power, according to Pawan. So to follow tradition, a double-breasted suit should be worn with a peak lapel.
5. Tip: The bottom of your tie should slightly touch the top of your belt.
Reason: Oscar Wilde once said that a well tied tie is the first serious step in life. Thus, the length of your tie should not be too long as to cover your belt, neither be so short that it makes you appear disproportionate.
6. Tip: The ends of your collar should not show from your suit jacket.
Reason: The collar of your shirt should be broad and wide enough so that the collar points do not pop out from the lapel of your suit jacket. According to Ashish Ishwar, “Gentleman would immediately see how sloppy this can make you look if it’s not taken care of.”
7. Tip: Never match your tie and pocket square.
Reason: “If you match your tie and pocket square, it tells others that you did not take enough time to dress,” stated Ashish. Thought the two are not supposed to match, they should belong to the same family of colours.
8. Tip: Your belt and shoes should always match.
Reason: It’s a timeless rule that your belt and shoes should always be the same colour. As they are placed in a symmetrical order, having them in the same colour would make your outfit seem harmonious and more pleasing to the eye.
9. Tip: Your shirt sleeves should always show from your suit jacket.
Reason: Make sure at least 1cm of your shirt sleeves show from your suit coat. It is one of the first signs of a well-tailored bespoke suit.
10. Tip: Lastly and most importantly, the Ishwar brothers advise: “Remember that first and foremost, we are gentlemen! When wearing a suit, always wear the attributes of being a gentleman, as being a gentleman never goes out of style.”